The Reserve Watervale Riesling 2022

Stunning stuff from the team which has picked up the baton from our greatest Riesling producer, John Vickery. From the Watervale sub-region in the Clare Valley, this is fractionally more gentle than its sibling from the Eden Valley, but exhibits just as much focus and length. From a stellar vintage, it reveals everything we love about great Aussie Riesling. Sure, the rest of the world does not understand why we make Riesling like that, as opposed to the Germanic and Alsatian efforts, but that just means all the more for us. A pale lemon hue, the room immediately filled with gorgeous Riesling aromatics – spices, florals, herbs, citrus and river stones. Grapefruit, lemon curd and chalky notes emerged and there is a steely backing. This is so well balanced, with vibrant acidity, focus and drive, not to mention serious length. Gosh, this is superb stuff. Long may the rest of the world ignore it. Fifteen to twenty years ahead of it and it goes without saying that this is criminally undervalued.

Fluorescent hues of emerald feijoas, golden kiwi and juicy limes. A plume of powdery talc and star jasmine. There is ease and grace here with a vintage that had the same effect of growers, thankfully. A radiant wine with the intensity of lime cordial and flow of a trickling river stream. Far too easy to enjoy, it will disappear before your eyes. The ripeness of fruit is spot on and would be highlighted by piquant goats cheese and fava bean salad. Drink now or let it rest for another decade in the back of your cellar for a showstopper later in life.

Pale straw, bright, lively and vibrant in the glass. Lifted and pretty aromas of citrus pith, lemon curd, mineral, white lily, jasmine and just-ripe white stone fruit. Juicy, mouth-filling, with plenty of pithy and crunchy lemony acidity, a touch of toast and lovely length and drive. A wine that is really attractive drinking now, but will also cellar beautifully for many years to come.